Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Ripley, Believe it or not!

Ripley, Ohio is not just another river town nestled along the winding Ohio River. Reverend John Rankin made his home (National Park website, Ohio Historical website) high atop the hill overlooking the river and Kentucky during the 1850s and it was his house that served as a beacon and a hideout for fugitive slaves escaping that "peculiar institution" in Kentucky and points south. With or without the history, the panoramic view atop the hill is stunning (panoramic picture below, click to enlarge).

But then, imagine a fugitive slave hiding precariously in the wood line across the river, waiting for the time, the opportunity to cross a tricky river and to climb the hill to the Reverend's home, hoping for safe hiding and passage to the next stop along the Underground Railroad. Perhaps stopping at John Parker's house, a free black, who helped countless fugitives pass through the region.

It is said the Reverend Rankin had the hill cleared of trees so that he could see his enemies coming well before they reached him. Today there are stone and wood stairs and those who are stout enough can march up the steps from the base of the "hill." (see left, click to enlarge)





The town of Ripley (map, historical website) is snuggled against the river and while atop the hill the modern economy of the river was at hand as a tow-barge tugged up river with a load of coal (see right, click to enlarge), oblivious that a gaggle of history teachers perched atop the crest having just been immersed in the world of slavery at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center just an hour's drive or so along the river back west in Cincinnati.

The charter bus I rode to the top of the hill to the Rankin House had difficulty making two turns and had to navigate low-hanging branches. The hill would be impossible to drive up in wintry weather.

The house is quite small and the outlaying buildings no longer exist, including the barn used to hide many runaways over night. Save for a story or three from the ranger stationed at the house, there is not much to learn as you poke around the house and grounds (see below and right, click to enlarge).






The Reverend and his sons were very active in moving runaways in and out of town. To walk inside the house defies the logic of their success, but, unlike many other Underground Railroad stations, their efforts were well documented.



An incredible chapter of our history happened here and standing alone atop the hill looking at the lay of the land to the south and then again to the north, it is daunting to think of escaping one hell and navigating another in hopes of a better life free from bondage.


And yes, this happened in the town of Ripley, believe it... or not. (view from the Rankin House towards Kentucky with Reverend Rankin quote below, click to enlarge)

- J.

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